Driving South - from Lyon to Marsaille

My best and most vivid memories of this trip were of my meals there.

Before this, I must have never really had French food, only inferior renditions of it. Nothing I had ever tried resembled the invigorating and rustic flavours I found in Provence.

The foie gras...

The wine tasting...


...and the cheeses, a whole galore of them. Stinky, gooey, nutty, sweet, savoury, creamy...just trying them out is an excursion in itself.


In Kitchen Confidential, Anthony Bourdain describes his initiation to good food when he was a 4th grader, after having his first cold soup - Vichysoisse - on a cruise to France. My initiation to good French food was in Le Mangevins, just around the corner from Cave de Tain l'Hermitage winery. (Turn in from RN7, pass Lyon)

Instantaneously after walking into the cosy little enclave, you'd know that this restauranteur takes his wine seriously. And that, is probably the best reassurance that he will take his food seriously too.

That's me polishing off a plate of very succulent, tasty and earnest lamb shank. And truth betold, I have never liked lamb until then.

Between meals, we trundled along the road, gaping at stretches of wineyards...

and grasslands...

awed by the colours...

the dappled light...

and quaint little villages and farmhouses...


We stopped once in awhile to wander around the cobbled stone, Romanesque towns.

Safely hidden in the village of Vaison la Romaine is a little gem: Au Coquin de Sort. I can just imagine it being a cottage taken right from a French fairy tale.



We scouted around the house and each turn was a surprise. They even have a hammock at the balcony! I love hammocks! How could we not stay at a place with a hammock? So we took all the 3 rooms they had.

Breakfast at Au Coquin was down to earth yet amazing. A selection of home made jams, that went perfectly with crusty home made bread, and a bowl of coffee for dipping. Yum. And did I mention that there was a harpsichord in the dining area? No kidding.

Having tucked in so much good food, it would be cruel to pick a favourite. But for your benefit, I'd say that the meal at Le Boteleur in Vaison la Romaine, was top notch from the entrees to dessert to the last drop of wine. Certainly my personal best. Pleeease try it, it'll do you good.


I was a little bit disappointed with the Boullabaise that everyone touted about in Marsaille, to be honest. Boiled Fish served with savoury fish soup and croutons to me didn't really call for that much of a parade, or funds (€40 per head).

And if you think that you have had enough fancy pansies, then Quick, is the French solution to McDees.

Souvenirs? Other than the bottles of wine, why not try the market at Aix En Provence for something to bring home.

It probably shouldn't come as a surprise that we loaded on more good food.

Friends abroad

One of the many things I find special about travelling, is the opportunity to visit an old friend - someone I have known for years and years, who has settled in a new place, away from where we had met and befriended. Where I get a glimpse of his/her life abroad.

With friends like these, there is the comfort of being able to talk and walk however we want because none of that matters, because we are way beyond first impressions, because it is so easy to revert to our teenage years again, and the sillyness we grew up by.

Catching up again always give me insights, consolance, advice, a support of a different kind and inspiration. Whenever we speak of our dreams and the lives ahead of us; of the people we knew and know; of the incidents and occassions; and when we fit in the puzzles that had been almost forgotten...

The aftermath is that I'm always saddened by the idea that it may be quite a long time for another chance like this to crop up again, for an opportunity that could narrow the gap between our lives and the paths that we have each chosen for ourselves.

Nevertheless, I am always left awed, impressed and proud of my friends. That they have paved a way of their own, in an unfamiliar territory; that they have grown up; that they are still ambitious, still thoughtful, still chatty, and still childlike all at once.

While we lament about the days having gone, I learn from them to be strong enough to see that every bygone had been a stepping stone to something better and more...awesome.

It was such strength that I get from them, to really see and expect that any future would be different from now but in fact better, and it will be what it is meant to be.

Tried and Tested Tasmania's East Coast

Food

1. Kate's Berry Farm, Swansea

Well worth the pit stop for its über delicious and creamy home-made ice creams. Their berry jams are just the right balance of saccharine and tartness. In the shop, there is a counter where you can grab a taster spoon and start sampling the interesting variety of jams.
The scones are just so-so, I prefer mine with more substance and less airy, served with clotted cream, not whipped.
Propped on higher ground, the views of wild daisies, crops and the ocean beyond while you relax and feast are a real bonus.

Location: Spot the sign on the way to Swansea.


2. Bark Mill Tavern & Bakery, Swansea
A good place to get hearty pub grub - burgers, lamb shank, fish & chips, pasta and the likes. The chunky fries are commendable, while the rest of the dishes deserve a reasonable 6/10 rating.


Location: spot the sign on the way to Swansea.








3. Hog's Breath Cafe, Hobart

"The best a steak can get." And I agree. You'd think they would name a steak house Cow instead of Hog but otherwise everything about this place rocks. With such good meat, you'd always be thankful for their huge portions.


Location: 2 Macquarie St.






Accomodation

1. Edinburgh Gallery B&B, Hobart
This place reminds me of art school. The simple kitchen benches, the colourful brochures, the leopard skin upholstery, the collection of quirky, contemporary art placed between retro furniture. At A$160 for 4 persons in a family room, this place is very affordable and meets all our expectations of a clean and kempt B&B.

Location: 211 Macquarie St




2. Old Tram Road, Bicheno
This was such a fab place we didn't want to move anywhere else for the rest of our trip.
Perks: the beautifully manicured garden; accessibility - a private path that heads straight to a sandy white beach; the helpful and friendly host, the port and chocolates and the gourmet breakfast!
They have 2 cosy, country-style furnished rooms available. If possible get the bigger one with a sofa and direct access to the gardens, it's better!




Any other suggestions to try and test in Tasmania's East Coast?

Ode to Tas

Top 5 things to do (in no particular order) when driving up the East Coast of Tasmania:

1. Pigging out at Oyster farms! You see a sign by the road, you drive in, you indulge. At A$14 per dozen, this is where I had the most extraordinarily fresh and wonderfully inexpensive oysters ever.


2. Kangaroo feeding at Natureworld, Bicheno. My heart turned into goo when these cute little darlings gently held my hand while I handed out their feed. I could spend a whole afternoon just watching. This reserve also houses Tassie devils, wombats, wallabies, a myriad of birds and reptiles and mammals that had been saved from further injury.






3. Loitering around Honeymoon Bay at Freycinet National Park, and be surrounded by the most inviting, and amazingly clear blue waters in the world. Uggggh, I know I could never get enough of this. Once at the Freycinet National Park, there are various other trails with different levels of difficulty and length that you can try out. Wineglass Bay is another famous spot which would take up to 4 hours of hiking to and fro.


4. Penguin watching at the blowhole, Bicheno. At about 8pm when it gets pitch dark, the Little (a.k.a. Fairy or Blue) Penguins come out to play. You could go on an organised tour but we just stayed low at the blow hole and waited. Sure enough these cheeky little creatures would animatedly creep up the shore into their breeding burrows, between bushes and stone cracks. Watch out for them on the road too. Switch off your headlights to allow them to crossover, and you can see them up close and personal. I still get the giggles each time I think of how they wiggle their furry little bodies.


5. Charter a boat at Louisville and you can marvel at Tassie's landscapes of undulating hills, raw vegetation, and tumbling cliffs. Maria Island which sits right across the sea is also nice to look at from the waters.


Remember that where ever you are and whatever you do at Tasmania, just take your time...

Tried and Tested Melbourne

Food

Mealtime

1. Dzung
This place is the reason why I think that you can just walk into any Vietnamese restaurant in Melbourne and it'll taste great. Wholesome and delicious helpings at A$8 - 15 per person per meal.

Location: Russell St.

2. Flower Drum
Great service and above average Chinese food. Most dishes are down to earth, authentic and does not surprise. Pricey at A$45 per head. On the Overated side since most food guides point you to their direction.

Location: Market Lane

3. Red Spice Road
This one I totally recommend for Thai/Asian fusion cuisine. Everything from the cocktails to the decor to the tasting menu were yummy. Less well known but I think it kicks Flower Drum's ass. It's cheaper too at A$35 per head including cocktails.

Location: McKillop St.

4. Vegie Bar
Go crazy please! I never thought I'd love a vegetarian restaurant and this place brings veg to a whole new level. Dishes range from soy burgers to Malaysian street food, delish! A$20 per person incl. drinks for gynormous portions.

Location: Brunswick St






Comfort Food

1. Berth
How about having French toasts at a seat overlooking the harbour? I found my brunch place at Waterfront City.
Not everyone can perfect the art of French toasts like Berth. The raisin bread was crusty on the outside and mouthwateringly succulent on the inside. Served with an abundance of maple syrup on the side. And icing sugar dustings? ooooh.

2. Max Brenner: Chocolate by the Bald Man

A Chocolate cafe! need I say more? Head to QV (shopping centre) where you can delve deep.

Top Tip: try everything.

3. San Churro
This is the place to get piping hot, crispy churros to dip with melted chocolate of your choice. Of course with the original ones in Spain the hot chocolate accompaniment was a thick drink, but whoever said innovation was bad? Heaps of good things you can find there: the atmosphere, the good looking staff, the quote on the tissues, excellent churros...

Location: Brunswick St at Fitzroy, and Carlisle St at St Kilda.





Accomodation

1. Knightsbridge Apartments

Cheap and clean is probably its forte. A bit further away from Melbourne CBD, a short walk to Fitzroy Gardens. Located in a leafy and residential area if that suits.

2. Oaks on Lonsdale

I can't praise more about this serviced apartment. At an avg of A$155 per night for a 1 bedroom, you get maximum luxury and ample space. It is central, convenient, comfortable, cool and has courteous service - all the 5 Cs you ever need.

If I had to dislike something, then perhaps the internet charge is ridiculous!

3. Pensione Hotel Melbourne
If you're willing to pay A$130per night for a small bedroom with bathroom drainage that didn't work all that well (at least mind didn't), then do yourself a favour and pay 25 more for something so much better at Oaks. Otherwise, I suppose it has all the facilities and decor of a mini boutique hotel. And it's very close to the Direct Factory Outlet and Southern Cross station so it's not bad. Free wireless is thrown in too if that matters to you.

Any other suggestions to try and test in Melbourne?