Hundreds of religious constructions, locally called Candi, were built around Java from the 8th century up to the island's Islamic conversion in the 13 hundreds. Today, several of them, with Borobudur being the largest, scattered all over Java, managed to survive time and destruction.
I'm not going to pretend I knew all of that before I arrived, because I had only read about the Borobudur in my Geography and History text books. That was the only monument's name I had to remember when filling in exam questions about the Sailendra dynasty, and thus the only one, regrettably, that I had set out to see.
I was very impressed at how organised and easily accessible the tourist destination is.
First of all, there are at least 4 daily flights offered by 3 different airlines from Bali to Yogyakarta (or Yogya to sound more local) - and plenty more from other major cities. We had no qualms booking the seats the night before as there were lots of availability.
Upon touch down, a security officer comes to check whether we have gotten the right luggage bags with the right luggage tags attached. Excellent. Reduces mistakes, lost luggages and theft.
Right outside the exit, there is a designated queue for authorised taxis towards the temple. The hour's drive NorthWest costs Rp 190,000 (US$ 19). You get a ticket and a man in blue uniform handles your luggages and drives you into the wilderness.
Borobudur is technically situated in the middle of a jungle, so it was quite daunting at first to be driven further and further away from civilisation and the lights of Yogya.The setting was uncannily familiar though -stretches of foodstalls or warung litter along scantily lit tar roads - very similar to the rural routes of Peninsular Malaysia from one town to another. It went on and on until the lights gave way to the darkness of the forrests and paddy fields that flanked what became now dirt roads.
We chose to stay at the Manohara, the closest accomodation to the site. 10 minutes walk from the inn and you're at the foot of the great shrine.
The place is clean but utterly basic. The rooms are lined in long corridors facing grassy lawns with hanging potted tropical plants all around. It reminded me of a Malaysian public school. Nonetheless, at US$36 per night for two including breakfast and the entry ticket to the temple, it was a deal.
The staff were receptive and pleasant and we even had our welcoming tea and biscuits, so definitely liveable if you lowered your expectations.
Otherwise, for the upper echelons and the honeymooners, there is always the Amanjiwo. A collective of 34 suites, some with their own private pools, is priced at an average of US$900 per room per night. Containing the mystical aura of the surroundings, Aman resorts usually needs no further introduction to its swankiness.
We only managed to dine there.
The Rp 600,000 (US$60) makan malam feast for one was not entirely awe inspiring. The ingrediants were fresh and the spices as zesty as can be, boasting 6 dishes to complement your plate of fragrant rice. But all in all, it was just an overstated nasi campur, or mixed rice, served with nice cutleries.
I was brought up in a place where the most expensive plate of nasi campur would cost US$1, so I ordered something Western instead. The grilled Baramundi. And was happier to pay Rp200,000 (US$20) for a fillet of well seasoned, well cooked fish. Exhorbitant prices nonetheless.
The Borobudur is a great place to experiment the multiple functions of your camera.
Differe
nt apetures, colour intensity, light balancing, level of focus et cetera...
...To capture different compositions, moods, angles and interpretations. I love these long corridors etched with stone carvings, where pilgrims would follow along, as they ascend the 7 levels of the monument, whilst contemplating on these reliefs.
It feels as though at every bend there is a surprise waiting for me: a different set of sculptures, a different view, a different form of beauty.
Although the rocks seem similar at first glance they in fact are unique. I encounter a myriad of structures none of which I have come across before. The place is after all a gigantic collection of art.
Today, the Borobudur stands on top of a hill, some say that it was initially built to be in the middle of a lake, which has now dried out, sprouting like a lotus within the water.
With the 72 stupas jutting at its crown like lotus petals.
As I walked up the 7 flights, and descended again, I noticed particularly the scenes of change: The heat, the light, the atmosphere, the people, the sounds, the routes. Whether it was looking out from the Borobudur or it was looking into the details of the structure.
Before I know it, time has passed, the sun has risen from beyond the trees. I have had my share of a new experience and therefore has changed along with the passing of time. I was ready to go, and join another adventure.
