Bali is most certainly a hedonist’s paradise. The island easily has the most number of luxury hotels and spa outlets per square foot in, dare I say, the world.
Not one but two Aman Resorts, Amandari and Amankila, as well as two Four Seasons are rooted in Bali; then there are The Oberoi, The Legian, Westin, Ritz Carlton and Conrad, just to name a few mainstreams.
Alternatively, but no less lavishly, there are plenty of private villas that are well catered for tourists i.e. endowed with the respective butlers, cooks, cleaners and security men.
Over the dizzying array of options, we have chosen to stay at:
1. Ylang Ylang Villa, Saba Bai
Cost: US$ 1,000 per night; sleeps 12 persons
The place greets you with inviting gurgles of flowing water from all directions, the lily ponds, the water spouts, the fountain, the pool, the ocean. We were already drenched in bliss within the first few mintues of setting foot onto its premises. There was soothing music wafting from all directions while hostesses and butlers smiled warmly as they served us cocktails and settled us in.
Its decor is the emblematic stone and wood medley, frangipani decked, Balinese style; where plush curtains dangle from far reaching ceilings and mahogany furniture spelling out r.e.l.a.x - as they are covered with velvety pillows, cushions, drapes, spreads, quilts...
10 minutes later, we were all lounging by the pool or having a dip, being served home made pancakes, plates of snacks, beer and juice. It all felt pretty unbelievable, like some scene out of MTV Cribs, except better!
There was no rush for us to be anywhere or to do anything, we were happy to be in the villa in the middle of nowhere, enjoying the sunset and each other's company. The hours just melted away with laughter and chatter and music.
And then, it was dinner time. Honestly, the best feast I had in Bali was prepared by the chefs at Ylang Ylang. The guide books always point you towards some restaurant at Jimbaran Bay or somewhere characteristic in Ubud. But I reckon that it is at the villa which we had a combination of excellent, earnest, reasonably priced and authentic South East Asian cuisine in a great surrounding.
I still salivate reminiscing about the flavourful Soto Ayam or lips licking good Tom Yam broth, Satay chicken skewers grilled to perfection, smoky barbequed lobsters and creamy laksa to name the very least.
That was not it. The best thing in culinary terms about this place was waking up to platters of fresh fruits every day, and having an endless supply fruit juices whenever you are in need of one.
If we ever felt the need to be productive or entertained, there was the audio visual room with a projector, a corner stacked with books and board games. Otherwise, an in house Balinese massage for USD30 per 90 minute session was also available.
Cost: US$ 335++ per 2 person villa per night
Nothing is too troublesome and no request is too ridiculous for the people at Samaya.
The 24 villas that made up Samaya each has their own private pool, on top of that, there were 2 public swimming pools by each of the restaurants. Samaya could have competed for the title of "hotel with the biggest pool area per capita" and won hands down.
The room was finished with a modern yet cosy, somewhat Japanese inspired touches. It had a great blend of technology and serenity.
The bonuses that comes with the room were just jaw dropping: there was an iPod Touch attached to a Bose sound system, a jacuzzi tub, 2 flatscreen TVs - one in the bedroom and one by the tub - and, wait for it, a personal Butler who will attend to your every need!
The room is cleaned twice a day, after which they present you with fresh fruits and puddings during tea time; newspapers, a bottle of champagne, free wifi, endless stocks at the mini bar... all that you would want and more.
Food was good in a chic, free range, organic, de-caff sort of way. The service was immaculate and it did make me feel like I was in a place where everyone was happy and nobody could touch me, reminding me of the lyrics "oooh heaven is a place on earth".
The only flaw to such perfection is the price, which one would expect it to be what it is. For more affordable luxury though, see the 3rd choice below:
Costs US$150 per room per night at the Sesapi
I have never stayed anywhere this interesting before. We walked in and the first thing we saw is a grain storage, hoisted by four vertical wooden planks.
Then we tracked further meeting the grounds of paddy fields and a flock of wild ducks.
The trail goes deeper and deeper into nature. Away from the hustle of Ubud, into another bustling realm of croaks, screetches and chirrings. Until we came to Rumah Sesapi.
There are different types of accomodation at Tegal Sari which are all equally intriguing, the Sesapi however is the only one with a private pool.
Everything felt so...au naturale, everything blended in well with the surroundings, it was truly beautiful.
Instead of making us feel like we were being stolen away into some fantasy land, Tegal Sari makes sure that we are living and breathing Bali in a refreshing and special way.
Tegal Sari has a menu of activities that they offer on a daily basis: dances, field trips et cetera. It might seem a little tacky or touristy at first, but in fact is a great way to gain some insight to the Balinese way of life and speak to the locals themselves. I had the feeling that the Balinese are genuinely very willing to share and learn from the people that come to visit their home.
It seems quite unfair, to think of Bali only as a pampering pie in the sky, because it definitely has much more to offer.
In terms of history, (Temple at Tasik Beratap shrouded in mystery)
scenery (Rice fields terraces at Jatiluweh),
festivity (weekly offerings laid out usually at entrances),
colour (sunset view at Jimbaran Bay),
meaning (Man and his basket at rice fields in Ubud)
activity (lady and child working in the rice fields Ubud)
flavour (Mee Bakso, Bebek Bengil and Babi Guling Ibu Oka)
art and design (shops in Ubud town centre)
culture (tall bamboo structures to signify blessing)
and most of all, endless discovery.
