Pampering yourself silly in Bali

Bali is most certainly a hedonist’s paradise. The island easily has the most number of luxury hotels and spa outlets per square foot in, dare I say, the world.

Not one but two Aman Resorts, Amandari and Amankila, as well as two Four Seasons are rooted in Bali; then there are The Oberoi, The Legian, Westin, Ritz Carlton and Conrad, just to name a few mainstreams.

Alternatively, but no less lavishly, there are plenty of private villas that are well catered for tourists i.e. endowed with the respective butlers, cooks, cleaners and security men.

Over the dizzying array of options, we have chosen to stay at:

1. Ylang Ylang Villa, Saba Bai

Cost: US$ 1,000 per night; sleeps 12 persons

The place greets you with inviting gurgles of flowing water from all directions, the lily ponds, the water spouts, the fountain, the pool, the ocean. We were already drenched in bliss within the first few mintues of setting foot onto its premises. There was soothing music wafting from all directions while hostesses and butlers smiled warmly as they served us cocktails and settled us in.

Its decor is the emblematic stone and wood medley, frangipani decked, Balinese style; where plush curtains dangle from far reaching ceilings and mahogany furniture spelling out r.e.l.a.x - as they are covered with velvety pillows, cushions, drapes, spreads, quilts...

10 minutes later, we were all lounging by the pool or having a dip, being served home made pancakes, plates of snacks, beer and juice. It all felt pretty unbelievable, like some scene out of MTV Cribs, except better!

There was no rush for us to be anywhere or to do anything, we were happy to be in the villa in the middle of nowhere, enjoying the sunset and each other's company. The hours just melted away with laughter and chatter and music.

And then, it was dinner time. Honestly, the best feast I had in Bali was prepared by the chefs at Ylang Ylang. The guide books always point you towards some restaurant at Jimbaran Bay or somewhere characteristic in Ubud. But I reckon that it is at the villa which we had a combination of excellent, earnest, reasonably priced and authentic South East Asian cuisine in a great surrounding.

I still salivate reminiscing about the flavourful Soto Ayam or lips licking good Tom Yam broth, Satay chicken skewers grilled to perfection, smoky barbequed lobsters and creamy laksa to name the very least.

That was not it. The best thing in culinary terms about this place was waking up to platters of fresh fruits every day, and having an endless supply fruit juices whenever you are in need of one.

If we ever felt the need to be productive or entertained, there was the audio visual room with a projector, a corner stacked with books and board games. Otherwise, an in house Balinese massage for USD30 per 90 minute session was also available.

2. Samaya, Seminyak

Cost: US$ 335++ per 2 person villa per night

Nothing is too troublesome and no request is too ridiculous for the people at Samaya.

The 24 villas that made up Samaya each has their own private pool, on top of that, there were 2 public swimming pools by each of the restaurants. Samaya could have competed for the title of "hotel with the biggest pool area per capita" and won hands down.

The room was finished with a modern yet cosy, somewhat Japanese inspired touches. It had a great blend of technology and serenity.

The bonuses that comes with the room were just jaw dropping: there was an iPod Touch attached to a Bose sound system, a jacuzzi tub, 2 flatscreen TVs - one in the bedroom and one by the tub - and, wait for it, a personal Butler who will attend to your every need!

The room is cleaned twice a day, after which they present you with fresh fruits and puddings during tea time; newspapers, a bottle of champagne, free wifi, endless stocks at the mini bar... all that you would want and more.


Food was good in a chic, free range, organic, de-caff sort of way. The service was immaculate and it did make me feel like I was in a place where everyone was happy and nobody could touch me, reminding me of the lyrics "oooh heaven is a place on earth".

The only flaw to such perfection is the price, which one would expect it to be what it is. For more affordable luxury though, see the 3rd choice below:

3. Tegal Sari, Ubud

Costs US$150 per room per night at the Sesapi

I have never stayed anywhere this interesting before. We walked in and the first thing we saw is a grain storage, hoisted by four vertical wooden planks.

Then we tracked further meeting the grounds of paddy fields and a flock of wild ducks.

The trail goes deeper and deeper into nature. Away from the hustle of Ubud, into another bustling realm of croaks, screetches and chirrings. Until we came to Rumah Sesapi.

There are different types of accomodation at Tegal Sari which are all equally intriguing, the Sesapi however is the only one with a private pool.

Everything felt so...au naturale, everything blended in well with the surroundings, it was truly beautiful.

Instead of making us feel like we were being stolen away into some fantasy land, Tegal Sari makes sure that we are living and breathing Bali in a refreshing and special way.

Tegal Sari has a menu of activities that they offer on a daily basis: dances, field trips et cetera. It might seem a little tacky or touristy at first, but in fact is a great way to gain some insight to the Balinese way of life and speak to the locals themselves. I had the feeling that the Balinese are genuinely very willing to share and learn from the people that come to visit their home.

It seems quite unfair, to think of Bali only as a pampering pie in the sky, because it definitely has much more to offer.

In terms of history, (Temple at Tasik Beratap shrouded in mystery)

scenery (Rice fields terraces at Jatiluweh),

festivity (weekly offerings laid out usually at entrances),

colour (sunset view at Jimbaran Bay),

meaning (Man and his basket at rice fields in Ubud)

activity (lady and child working in the rice fields Ubud)

flavour (Mee Bakso, Bebek Bengil and Babi Guling Ibu Oka)

art and design (shops in Ubud town centre)

culture (tall bamboo structures to signify blessing)

and most of all, endless discovery.

The charms of Candi Borobudur

Hundreds of religious constructions, locally called Candi, were built around Java from the 8th century up to the island's Islamic conversion in the 13 hundreds. Today, several of them, with Borobudur being the largest, scattered all over Java, managed to survive time and destruction.

I'm not going to pretend I knew all of that before I arrived, because I had only read about the Borobudur in my Geography and History text books. That was the only monument's name I had to remember when filling in exam questions about the Sailendra dynasty, and thus the only one, regrettably, that I had set out to see.

I was very impressed at how organised and easily accessible the tourist destination is.

First of all, there are at least 4 daily flights offered by 3 different airlines from Bali to Yogyakarta (or Yogya to sound more local) - and plenty more from other major cities. We had no qualms booking the seats the night before as there were lots of availability.

Upon touch down, a security officer comes to check whether we have gotten the right luggage bags with the right luggage tags attached. Excellent. Reduces mistakes, lost luggages and theft.

Right outside the exit, there is a designated queue for authorised taxis towards the temple. The hour's drive NorthWest costs Rp 190,000 (US$ 19). You get a ticket and a man in blue uniform handles your luggages and drives you into the wilderness.

Borobudur is technically situated in the middle of a jungle, so it was quite daunting at first to be driven further and further away from civilisation and the lights of Yogya.

The setting was uncannily familiar though -stretches of foodstalls or warung litter along scantily lit tar roads - very similar to the rural routes of Peninsular Malaysia from one town to another. It went on and on until the lights gave way to the darkness of the forrests and paddy fields that flanked what became now dirt roads.


We chose to stay at the Manohara, the closest accomodation to the site. 10 minutes walk from the inn and you're at the foot of the great shrine.

The place is clean but utterly basic. The rooms are lined in long corridors facing grassy lawns with hanging potted tropical plants all around. It reminded me of a Malaysian public school. Nonetheless, at US$36 per night for two including breakfast and the entry ticket to the temple, it was a deal.

The staff were receptive and pleasant and we even had our welcoming tea and biscuits, so definitely liveable if you lowered your expectations.


Otherwise, for the upper echelons and the honeymooners, there is always the Amanjiwo. A collective of 34 suites, some with their own private pools, is priced at an average of US$900 per room per night. Containing the mystical aura of the surroundings, Aman resorts usually needs no further introduction to its swankiness.

We only managed to dine there.

The Rp 600,000 (US$60) makan malam feast for one was not entirely awe inspiring. The ingrediants were fresh and the spices as zesty as can be, boasting 6 dishes to complement your plate of fragrant rice. But all in all, it was just an overstated nasi campur, or mixed rice, served with nice cutleries.

I was brought up in a place where the most expensive plate of nasi campur would cost US$1, so I ordered something Western instead. The grilled Baramundi. And was happier to pay Rp200,000 (US$20) for a fillet of well seasoned, well cooked fish. Exhorbitant prices nonetheless.



The Borobudur is a great place to experiment the multiple functions of your camera.

Different apetures, colour intensity, light balancing, level of focus et cetera...

...To capture different compositions, moods, angles and interpretations. I love these long corridors etched with stone carvings, where pilgrims would follow along, as they ascend the 7 levels of the monument, whilst contemplating on these reliefs.







It feels as though at every bend there is a surprise waiting for me: a different set of sculptures, a different view, a different form of beauty.

Although the rocks seem similar at first glance they in fact are unique. I encounter a myriad of structures none of which I have come across before. The place is after all a gigantic collection of art.

Today, the Borobudur stands on top of a hill, some say that it was initially built to be in the middle of a lake, which has now dried out, sprouting like a lotus within the water.
With the 72 stupas jutting at its crown like lotus petals.

As I walked up the 7 flights, and descended again, I noticed particularly the scenes of change: The heat, the light, the atmosphere, the people, the sounds, the routes. Whether it was looking out from the Borobudur or it was looking into the details of the structure.




Before I know it, time has passed, the sun has risen from beyond the trees. I have had my share of a new experience and therefore has changed along with the passing of time. I was ready to go, and join another adventure.