Before this, I must have never really had French food, only inferior renditions of it. Nothing I had ever tried resembled the invigorating and rustic flavours I found in Provence.
The foie gras...
The wine tasting...
...and the cheeses, a whole galore of them. Stinky, gooey, nutty, sweet, savoury, creamy...just trying them out is an excursion in itself.
In Kitchen Confidential, Anthony Bourdain describes his initiation to good food when he was a 4th grader, after having his first cold soup - Vichysoisse - on a cruise to France. My initiation to good French food was in Le Mangevins, just around the corner from Cave de Tain l'Hermitage winery. (Turn in from RN7, pass Lyon)
Instantaneously after walking into the cosy little enclave, you'd know that this restauranteur takes his wine seriously. And that, is probably the best reassurance that he will take his food seriously too.
That's me polishing off a plate of very succulent, tasty and earnest lamb shank. And truth betold, I have never liked lamb until then.
Between meals, we trundled along the road, gaping at stretches of wineyards...
and grasslands...
awed by the colours...
the dappled light...
and quaint little villages and farmhouses...
We stopped once in awhile to wander around the cobbled stone, Romanesque towns.
Safely hidden in the village of Vaison la Romaine is a little gem: Au Coquin de Sort. I can just imagine it being a cottage taken right from a French fairy tale.
We scouted around the house and each turn was a surprise. They even have a hammock at the balcony! I love hammocks! How could we not stay at a place with a hammock? So we took all the 3 rooms they had.
Breakfast at Au Coquin was down to earth yet amazing. A selection of home made jams, that went perfectly with crusty home made bread, and a bowl of coffee for dipping. Yum. And did I mention that there was a harpsichord in the dining area? No kidding.
Having tucked in so much good food, it would be cruel to pick a favourite. But for your benefit, I'd say that the meal at Le Boteleur in Vaison la Romaine, was top notch from the entrees to dessert to the last drop of wine. Certainly my personal best. Pleeease try it, it'll do you good.
I was a little bit disappointed with the Boullabaise that everyone touted about in Marsaille, to be honest. Boiled Fish served with savoury fish soup and croutons to me didn't really call for that much of a parade, or funds (€40 per head).
And if you think that you have had enough fancy pansies, then Quick, is the French solution to McDees.
Souvenirs? Other than the bottles of wine, why not try the market at Aix En Provence for something to bring home.
It probably shouldn't come as a surprise that we loaded on more good food.
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